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ARTICLES
Understanding
Hinges
Pocket Hole Joinery
Router Sign-Craft System
Dovetails
Custom Made Picture Frames
Cabinetry Building
Refinishing, Resurfacing, Painting & Updating
Ball Bearing Drawer Slides FAQ
Screw Comparison Guide
Saw Blades 101
Crown Molding Made Easy
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Custom-Made Picture Frames
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[Matting] [Choosing
Stock] [Ripping Stock] [Edge Profiles]
[Miter Cutting Frame Members]
[Gluing Up] [Decorative Options] [Finish Work] |
Everyone Likes a Picture Frame
Creating custom picture frames for friends and
family is a great gift giving project that's sure to
please even those difficult to shop for gift
recipients. Everyone has a special photo or keepsake
they've meant to have framed. Making a custom frame
to match may be the best gift of the season. Best of
all, it's a quick and simple project to complete
with the right tools and set up. |
Start with Matting
If possible, mat your intended photography
or artwork before cutting any stock. This will help
you determine the final dimensions of your completed
frame, and the type of stock you'll want to use.
Although you can purchase pre-cut matting at your
local hobby store, using your own mat
cutting system may be more economical,
especially if you have a lot of family and friends
for whom you're making frames. |
MatMate System |
Choosing
Stock
Next you'll want to choose your stock. Picture
frames don't require a lot so your scrap pile can
often yield a treasure of possibility. Carefully
match the color of your lumber to the artwork or
photograph, and mat. It's the mark of a meticulous
craftsperson and it's sure to impress. If your scrap
pile doesn't cooperate, there are dozens of
wood
stock types available in all colors and
textures. Tip: If you're really in a hurry, you can
use ready-to-cut
picture frame moldings.
Ripping to Width
Now rip your stock to width. Use 3/4" lumber (you can go
thicker but it's not a good idea to go any thinner),
and rip it at least 1 1/2" wide because anything
less will look pale and weak--like you skimped. And
you wouldn't want to leave a bad Yuletide
impression.
Using a good
table saw and fence, rip enough length to
account for the full dimensions of your finished
frame, leaving an inch or so extra at the ends for
good measure.
Rabbet the Backside
Cut a rabbet in the
backside of your lengths to accommodate the artwork,
matting, and backer board that will be installed in
the finished frame. It helps to envision the
thickness of the stock in thirds, which is why 3/4"
stock works so well. The rabbet should be no
shallower than 1/2" and should remove no more than
2/3rds off the thickness so that there is at least a
1/4" left to profile an edge on the front side. (See
Illustration 1.) A 1/2"
rabbet or straight router bit will typically
take a 3/8" width of cut. This is a good dimension
that will create a 1/2" by 3/8" rabbet in the
backside of your frame. Although your table saw can
be used to cut this rabbet, a
router table may be a safer alternative. Chuck a
1/2" bit in your router table and rout the backside
of your frame members. |
The Front, Inside Edge
Choose the style of molding profile you want along
the front, inside edge of your frame. Since there is
only 1/4" of stock thickness left along this edge,
you'll want to keep this profile within a 1/8"
tolerance to leave a strong enough edge within which
to hold the frame's contents. Leaving anything less
will create a raggedy looking edge or none at all.
The profile you choose here should remove no more
than half the wood fiber from this inside edge, so
it's important to choose the proper type of router
bit. Bisecting the edge with, say a 1/4'' bit will
leave just the right amount of stock and create an
attractively dimensioned inside border for your
frame. (See Illustration 2.) A
cove bit or
classic bit, for example, would do nicely. In
working with narrow widths, always use
feather boards on your router table. It saves
fingers. |
Front, Outside Edge
For aesthetics and eye appeal, a different edge
profile works best along the front, outside edge of
your frame. If you've used a bead on the inside
edge, a
Roman Ogee,
Classic Roman, or
Ogee Fillet would look nice on this outside
edge. Taking away no more than half the wood fiber
is a good rule for sake of both appearance and
strength. (See Illustration 3.) Tip: this edge can
be profiled after glue-up, which sometimes results
in better looking corners. |
The Back, Outside Edge (Optional)
As an option, you may want to also profile the back
outside edge of your frame. To maintain structural
integrity and good appearance, don't remove more
than half the remaining amount of stock from this
edge should you choose this option. |
Rockler Sure-Loc Miter Gauge
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Miter Cut To Dimension
Once the frame members
have been profiled to your liking, you can move
on to cutting your miters. Use this handy formula to
get the total length of each side:
[Length of Mat] - [width of rabbet]x2 + [width of
frame]x2
Miters can be cut with a power miter saw, manually with
a hand
miter saw, or at your table saw with a
miter gauge or miter jig set to a 45° angle (for
square or rectangular frames). |
Trimming to Fit
Dry fit your frame. If the frame members are cut
well, they'll fit. If not, a little trimming is in
order. Don't be tempted to trim cut your mitered
edges, it could end up in disaster. Instead, lightly
sand them to fit with a stationary disk sander or
use a
miter trimming tool. This will give you more
control over stock removal.
Gluing Up
Glue up your frame using a
good
web clamp or
frame clamp. Instead of standard yellow glue, a
good
epoxy is best in this situation. It holds firmly
against the end grain of the frame members.
Let the glue-up set until the epoxy cures.
A
Decorative Option
As another option, you may
want to spline the corners of your frame. This is a
decorative approach to frame joinery that will be
highly appreciated by your gift-giving recipient.
The use of a contrasting wood for corner splines--a
dark wood such as walnut or mahogany--can further
accentuate this attractive element. A router table
or table saw with a
V-jig or Tenoning Jig can be used to cut
accommodating slots for your splines along the outer
edge of each corner. A 1/8" slot works well and
leaves enough room on either side for a balanced
look. Most table saw blades cut a kerf of about this
size. Always cut the slots for your splines after
you've profiled the edges with your router,
otherwise you risk routing into your beautiful
corner splines when you profile the edges.
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Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish |
Finishing Up
There are many good
finishing alternatives for picture frames (which
will not normally need to endure a great deal of
wear or stress). A good-quality
oil finish will achieve a nice luster, but
wax or
polyurethane will also do nicely. |
Wrapping Up
Now that your beautiful, hand crafted frame is
complete you may have trouble giving it away. If so,
you'll need to make another. But before you wrap it
for Christmas, make sure to brand your signature on
it with your "hand
crafted by" branding iron because you'll be
creating a high-quality family heirloom that will be
cherished for generations. |
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