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|
| QUESTION |
ANSWER |
| How do I place an order? |
With the new shopping
cart installed on my website, you simply click on a
product, enter a quantity, and check out. You do
not need to have a PayPal account to make a purchase.
You can pay with any credit card, debit card, or
e-check. Please note that e-checks take longer, as
the funds are held until your check clears.
For custom orders, I will email you a PayPal invoice for
50% down to start the job, and another invoice for the
remaining 50% plus shipping charges to ship the order. |
| I don't have a Pay Pal
account, what should I do? |
You do
not need a Pay Pal account.
You can either use a credit card, debit card, or send an e-check
through PayPal. You
can pay with any credit card, debit card, or e-check.
Please note that e-checks take longer, as the funds are
held until your check clears. Information is on Pay Pal's
website, and on the payment page. I now see that
PayPal offers "Bill Me Later" as another option, where I
think you will have 6 months to pay with no interest.
Look carefully at the options on the payment page.
Sometimes they off-set the regular credit card option
because they want you to set up an account, or use their
other options. |
Do you take phone orders?
|
Not any
longer. I used
to have that option available, but not any longer.
It's an additional $30 per month charge for me to have
that option, and in the 6 months that I paid for it,
there were zero phone order requests for wood products.
All sales must be made via the website. For custom
orders I will send you a unique link to pay for your
order. |
| I ordered 2" diameter
slices, but some of them are slightly under, and some
slightly over 2" in diameter. |
That's
how trees grow. I post the smallest diameter on
the website. Most of the time you will receive
slightly larger wood slices. Tree trunks and
branches hardly ever are perfectly round in shape. |
| Why do you charge extra
if I want the wood slices sanded? |
Because
sanding belts are expensive, and as for now, I do all
the sanding by hand, slice by slice on a belt sander.
This is a very time consuming process. I might
spend 2 hours cutting slices, and another 6 - 10 hours
sanding them. I specialize in "rustic" wood, which
is usually rough-cut. Add my time and
materials to the cost of the wood, and you get a pretty
expensive piece of sanded wood. I feel that since
most people are looking for the lowest prices I can
offer, and a lot of my customers want the rustic look, I
will only sand them as an option. Customers can
easily sand their wood when they receive it. |
| I sent you an email but
did not receive a response from you. |
I receive a
tremendous amount of email. I try my best to
answer everyone. Sometimes, however, the message
is not clear to me what the customer is requesting and
will require a longer response. I file those into
the to-do list.
If your questions are straight-forward, and I can answer
it with a few
sentences, you will get a response.
If I have to
send an email back to you to ask you what size, type of
wood, thickness, diameter because you did not provide
that in your initial email but requested a quote, you
will probably even by-pass the to-do list and go
directly to delete.
I can't afford the time to
individually ask for clarification of each email.
You must take the time to do some research on my website
for answers before sending me a message. For
example, if I receive an email that asks me for a "quote
for wood for wedding table centerpieces, what is the
cost and what will the shipping be, the cheapest
possible to fit my budget".......you probably won't get
a reply. In that case, please see what's available
in the wood shop and go from
there. |
|
What is the best way for me to sand a round
slice of wood? |
If the wood
slice is small you can simply lay a flat sheet of sand
paper down on a table and rub the slice back and forth
across the sandpaper. To smooth the edges, hold
the slice at a slight angle and rub the edge across the
sanding paper. For larger slices, an electric
sander works great. Either an orbital or
flat sheet sander would be ideal, but even those smaller
sanders with the triangle shaped paper would work as
well. If you have a belt sander handy, that is
your best bet in both cases. |
| Can I get my money back
if I don't like the wood? |
Of course. If you are not completely satisfied
with your product, you may return it within 5 days for a
full refund. Initial and return shipping costs
will not be refunded. |
| How do I keep my wood
slices from cracking, and how can I be sure that the
bark stays on? |
The larger the wood slice, the more likely it is to
crack over time. This is due to moisture
evaporating from the wood cells, thereby shrinking the
wood and causing cracking from the pith (center) of the
wood slice. Treating the wood slice with an oil
based product, or sealing the entire slice with varnish
will help to preserve the wood and bark. Also,
avoid
rain, and other weather elated elements, direct sunlight, or any heat source. Drastic
temperature and humidity changes might cause cracking of the wood
quickly. I use Pentacryl
for treating wood slices, which drastically helps to
prevent cracking, but as with anything in nature,
sometimes cracks just cannot be avoided. Not all of my
products are treated. Please see the description
of each. I am one of the few suppliers who
treat their wood. |
| How do you dry the wood? |
All wood is air dried. |
|
How old is the wood? |
Most of the wood I cut is dried in log form first, then
sliced. Occasionally I cut green wood and then air
dry it. Actual age of the log or branch varies
with each product. |
| Are your wood slices
treated? |
If a
wood product has been treated with Pentacryl it is
clearly noted on the website next to the product
description.
Pentacryl is a wood stabilizer used by woodcarvers and
woodturners to keep green wood from cracking, checking
and splitting during the drying process. When the wood
is completely dry, it can be stained and finished with
either waterborne or oil base products. PENTACRYL is
non-toxic. For more
information please click here. |
| Do you varnish the wood? |
No. Due to
insurance purposes, I can't have varnish,
solvents, and other hazardous and flammable products in
my wood shop. I sell rustic style wood. Some
of my finished products are sealed with a water-based
varnish. If any of my products are varnished, it
will be clearly noted. I simply don't have ample
space in my shop to varnish a large quantity of
products. |
| How do you ship products? |
Please
see the "shipping" page for
this information. |
| Why can't you tell me
what the shipping cost will be before I place my order? |
Because
the moisture content of wood determines it's weight.
Each slice and species is different. Humidity in
the air will affect an unfinished piece of wood.
Other aspects which affect the weight of the wood slice
are it's age and how green it is, if it has been treated
with Pentacryl, and how thick it is. 10 slices of
Poplar will weigh less than 10 slices of Black Ash.
There is no way for me to pre-calculate shipping costs.
Please see my shipping policy
for more information. |
| I just found your
website, and I need some slices ASAP! |
I
usually cut slices according to when the order was
received. Larger orders require more time to
complete. If you have a small order
I might be able to fit it in for an extra "rush order"
fee if what you are ordering is similar to whatever job
I'm cutting at that time. It wouldn't be fair to cut a
rush order for you when my other customers, who planned
and ordered ahead, are waiting for their order to be
cut. |
| Can you send samples? |
I no
longer have pre-cut sample slices for sale. My
wood stock changes during the year. You can buy a
single slice of wood from the wood
shop if you want to. |
| Do you have any mis-cuts,
or imperfect slices that you sell. |
You can
find some mis-cuts, imperfect cuts, and low quality wood
slices in the Bargain
Bin. |
| Can you drill a hole into
the wood slices for me? |
Yes, no
problem. I charge a small fee for drilling holes.
All you have to do is tell me what size hole you need,
and where you want it drilled (face or edge).
Holes are different than drilling a mortise for a
candle, which takes much more time.
I can also add small metal screw-in eyelet's to the edge
of wood slices. |
|
Can I drill my own holes into a chunk of birch
to fit candles? How should I do it? |
Yes. The
best way is with a forstner bit. A tea candle
needs a 1-1/2" bit. A votive candle requires about
1-7/8" to 2" bit, depending upon how deep you want the
candle to sit into the wood. You will need a clamp
to hold the wood securely, and a power drill. Bits
can be purchased either on my website,
or at your local hardware/woodworking store. |
|
What is the best type of wood for burning with a
wood-burning pen or branding iron. |
Basswood is
the softest wood, and is an excellent medium for
Pyrography and carving. |
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